[Canada thistle about to release seeds - from a Utah State ag website]
It occurred to me yesterday that I should say just a bit more about canada thistle. I think a lot of people around here have to deal with this weed. I know that it's in a lot of city parks and "naturalized" areas around Ann Arbor. From what I've seen, they don't have a clue how to deal with it. The best I've seen so far is to rip it up and put down a thick layer of mulch. Which would work, if you came back and ripped it out every 3-4 weeks. Which they don't.
Canada thistle is a persistent, perennial weed. You can kill the top - have to in fact, to make any progress - but that doesn't kill the plant. You can kill the top and rip up most of the roots (good luck with that), but unless you get all the roots, you probably haven't killed the plant. You can even spray it with nasty herbicides and you haven't killed it. This is one of those plants that are a bane to the chemical farmers as well as organic farmers.
So how do you kill it? You starve it to death. You can think of it as strangling it, beating it over the head with a rock, and drowning it - it's a little more satisfying to think of it that way, though have fun putting your hands on it; the spines make it through long pants somehow. Ouch. But in reality, the way to get rid of it is by starving it.
I know of three general ways to do that. First, you can mow it. And mow it. And mow it again. After several years of mowing, it will supposedly give up the ghost.
From Purdue University - Canada thistle roots
Next, you can mow it and smother it. This is supposed to be a really good option, though I'm not so sure yet. In this method, you plant some really persistent, annual, smother crop. Sudan grass is supposed to be good. Then you mow it several times over one season, and in the end the thistle is supposed to be gone. Did you notice that "supposed" word popping up a lot? That's because alfalfa is also "supposed" to be able to do this smother crop role, and our alfalfa has a good bit of canada thistle in it. I think the alfalfa might be winning, but it's hard to be sure. We also tried the sudan grass route last year, and ended up with a spotty stand of sudan grass and tremendous piles of cut grass gumming up our sicklebar mower.
Finally, the method that I *know* works. You can clean cultivate. Clean cultivation is an anachronism from the distant past, and an abomination to good soil management, but it does get rid of the thistle, in about two months. Two months of good growing season, unfortunately. And it also breaks down an unfortunate amount of soil organic matter. And there's nothing stopping the thistle coming back from an adjacent field the next year, either. But clean cultivation - killing everything in the field every three weeks for at least three iterations, does work. We did this with sweeps on a cultivator, but I suppose the chemical farmers would blast the field with herbicide each time.
In this kind of situation, it usually makes sense to step back and re-think the problem. The proper organic solution is to say, "Doesn't something eat this weed? Is there some practice I can use to deal with it in the long-run? How can I prevent it coming back? What level of infestation can I tolerate?" Let's do these backward. Any level of infestation is a problem, because a low level *very* quickly becomes a larger infestation. As far as I can tell, the ways to prevent it coming back are to compost manure, and ruthlessly kill the thistle whenever you see it. I suspect the best practices are to improve soil tilth (it likes compacted soils), compost any manure, and ruthlessly kill the thistle whenever you see it.
Finally, "doesn't something eat this weed?" There's the rub. In its native range, this weed, like so many others, is a minor pest. It *does* have predators. However, like so many of these invasives, you don't get to use the predators. That's because so far, the three or four predatory bugs seem to like native thistles about as much as, or more than, canada thistle. Supposedly in some parts of the country they are using some of these beetles, but as of last year, they were banned in Michigan.
One Small Farm
Friday, June 17, 2011
Thursday, June 16, 2011
Our Worst Weed
... Is about ready to bloom right now. That's a blessing, an opportunity, and a problem.
The weed is canada thistle. No, it's not from Canada. It's actually from somewhere in eurasia, like many of our other invasive plants. It's been a pest in the US for hundreds of years. It's a noxious weed in many states, and on our farm. We don't know if our problem came from the roadside, where it's growing in much of our area, or from our manure source, where you can also see lots of it.
It has its benefits. It helps to deal with compacted soil, which ours is a bit. Canada thistle grows well in rich, compacted soil, and its wide net of fairly thick roots can help to aerate the soil, if you can manage to kill the weed! Besides that, it's a terrific bee forage. About the only really good things about canada thistle and spotted knapweed are that bees love them. I hope our bees get their fill fast, because I intend to cut all of our thistle off at the knees the first chance I get.
And there's the opportunity. One of the best organic ways to deal with canada thistle is to get it to just before it blooms and cut it off or rip it up. The roots send almost all the energy of the plant into producing those flowers, so cutting it at this time makes sure you've weakened the roots as much as possible before you go after it more. You don't want to wait until the blooms open, however, or you run the risk of the flowers getting pollinated. It's not good for bees for nothing. Luckily, the plant spreads only weakly by seed, so cutting it after it sets seed isn't as bad as it could be.
And then there's the problem. My 7' sickle bar mower is broken. Darned thing sheared an internal pin while I was cutting thistle. It was both my fault and a previous owner's. It was my fault because I was trying to back the mower while the blade was still going. Dumb. It was a previous owner's fault because someone had disassembled the drive shaft before and didn't put back the key that was supposed to go in the shaft keyway. So this 5/16 pin was the only thing holding the shaft to the belt pulley. It's doubly annoying because this mower has a slip clutch that's supposed to slip in this situation, and has before. But that day the pin sheared instead. Nuts.
And to make matters worse, I can't get the remnants of the pin out of the drive shaft. I'd have the mower working again already, but the darned thing won't come out. I've tried whacking away at it with a punch and mallet, spraying PB Blaster into it and pounding away at it, and finally hitting it with a torch to soften things up and trying to pound it out. A broken chunk came out, but most of it is still in there. So next I try a better shaped punch and drilling it out.
My fall-back option is to cut it the way we used to, with a 3.5' wide, walk-behind sickle mower. That takes about 6x as long to cut the same area. And I have about six acres that I need to cut, including about two acres with canada thistle.
The weed is canada thistle. No, it's not from Canada. It's actually from somewhere in eurasia, like many of our other invasive plants. It's been a pest in the US for hundreds of years. It's a noxious weed in many states, and on our farm. We don't know if our problem came from the roadside, where it's growing in much of our area, or from our manure source, where you can also see lots of it.
It has its benefits. It helps to deal with compacted soil, which ours is a bit. Canada thistle grows well in rich, compacted soil, and its wide net of fairly thick roots can help to aerate the soil, if you can manage to kill the weed! Besides that, it's a terrific bee forage. About the only really good things about canada thistle and spotted knapweed are that bees love them. I hope our bees get their fill fast, because I intend to cut all of our thistle off at the knees the first chance I get.
And there's the opportunity. One of the best organic ways to deal with canada thistle is to get it to just before it blooms and cut it off or rip it up. The roots send almost all the energy of the plant into producing those flowers, so cutting it at this time makes sure you've weakened the roots as much as possible before you go after it more. You don't want to wait until the blooms open, however, or you run the risk of the flowers getting pollinated. It's not good for bees for nothing. Luckily, the plant spreads only weakly by seed, so cutting it after it sets seed isn't as bad as it could be.
And then there's the problem. My 7' sickle bar mower is broken. Darned thing sheared an internal pin while I was cutting thistle. It was both my fault and a previous owner's. It was my fault because I was trying to back the mower while the blade was still going. Dumb. It was a previous owner's fault because someone had disassembled the drive shaft before and didn't put back the key that was supposed to go in the shaft keyway. So this 5/16 pin was the only thing holding the shaft to the belt pulley. It's doubly annoying because this mower has a slip clutch that's supposed to slip in this situation, and has before. But that day the pin sheared instead. Nuts.
And to make matters worse, I can't get the remnants of the pin out of the drive shaft. I'd have the mower working again already, but the darned thing won't come out. I've tried whacking away at it with a punch and mallet, spraying PB Blaster into it and pounding away at it, and finally hitting it with a torch to soften things up and trying to pound it out. A broken chunk came out, but most of it is still in there. So next I try a better shaped punch and drilling it out.
My fall-back option is to cut it the way we used to, with a 3.5' wide, walk-behind sickle mower. That takes about 6x as long to cut the same area. And I have about six acres that I need to cut, including about two acres with canada thistle.
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Looking for Farm Insurance
Our current insurance company doesn't write business insurance policies. They told me that I can cover the land as a rider on our home policy, but if we decide to make a business of it, we'll have to find insurance somewhere else. Got it. So I looked.
First I checked with Farm Bureau Insurance. You'd think, right? As it turns out, they're only interested if we cover the house with them too. I'm saving that as a last resort.
So I did some more checking, and found that State Farm has Farm and Ranch insurance (it's even called "Farm and Ranch"), and the closest agent is just a short walk from work. I walked over and talked to the agent. Nice guy. He called me back and said there's no way. What?! Because we're actually growing food - and people will actually eat it - their "Farm and Ranch" policy won't work. What do they think happens on farms?
I think the real reason, and he alluded to this, is the bean sprout / e. coli thing in Germany. Because, you know, those were 'organic' bean sprouts, and we're working on an 'organic' farm, so therefore we must be as dangerous as a farm that grows food in warm, wet, nutrient rich, barrels.
I try insurance company number four this Friday. Supposedly Nationwide has a set of policies for farms, and they say on their website that if you're growing unprocessed produce, you don't even need a separate product liability policy. We'll see.
First I checked with Farm Bureau Insurance. You'd think, right? As it turns out, they're only interested if we cover the house with them too. I'm saving that as a last resort.
So I did some more checking, and found that State Farm has Farm and Ranch insurance (it's even called "Farm and Ranch"), and the closest agent is just a short walk from work. I walked over and talked to the agent. Nice guy. He called me back and said there's no way. What?! Because we're actually growing food - and people will actually eat it - their "Farm and Ranch" policy won't work. What do they think happens on farms?
I think the real reason, and he alluded to this, is the bean sprout / e. coli thing in Germany. Because, you know, those were 'organic' bean sprouts, and we're working on an 'organic' farm, so therefore we must be as dangerous as a farm that grows food in warm, wet, nutrient rich, barrels.
I try insurance company number four this Friday. Supposedly Nationwide has a set of policies for farms, and they say on their website that if you're growing unprocessed produce, you don't even need a separate product liability policy. We'll see.
Tuesday, June 14, 2011
Third (Fifth?) Customer!
Hooray! We now have our third customer! She's a mom we know from the Northside PTO. She seems really geeked about buying produce from us. I hope she likes it!
So now we have two neighbors, our new customer, who's a little farther away, and kind of Mom and Uncle Les from Chicago. At this point, we have four kinds of lettuce, some broccoli, some kohlrabi (was supposed to be broccoli!) some cabbage, some really happy tomato plants, some slightly less happy pepper plants, some cute and very happy little celery, a bit of onions, some squash, and a few other things. We're selling lettuce and some cole crops here and there - so far a bit of bok choi (was also supposed to be broccoli), one kohlrabi, and a smidge of broccoli.
An old picture of one of the raised beds. From top to bottom, that's garlic in the fence corner, some of our really nice buttercrunch lettuce, some red romaine leaf lettuce after that, then broccoli surrounded by more red romaine, some frilly romaine, and a bit of bok choi that's long gone. The picture is from May 22nd. It's all on a raised bed to keep things from drowning in this, our new record spring for rain.
First Post - We find our land.
So we started a small organic farm. I think this kind of info might be useful for other peak oil/climate change/organic types who are thinking about farming. We really could use more small organic farms, if only to make sure some of the older knowledge about low energy farming isn't lost. So this blog will be about our experiences at A&B Acres.
Jodi and I (Ken) have been organic gardening in our back yard for over a decade. In 2006 we did a cash-out refinance, thinking it was our last chance before the housing bubble burst (a little early, but about right). We parked the money for a while, thinking about what to do with it. Meanwhile, we were trying to get our neighbors to go for a small community garden in our local park. There's plenty of land there, even if the soil is too gravelly and high pH. But the neighbors wouldn't bite.
So we started looking around for some land. My first thoughts were about something farther away from Ann Arbor, where we live, and more toward a place we could run away to if Detroit ever really blew up. AA is only about 40 miles from downtown Detroit. Luckily for us, the first place we looked seriously at was owned by a doctor in Florida who really didn't understand the value of his property, and wouldn't even consider a reasonable offer. He's probably still trying to unload it.
So, on to plan B. Anything a little closer? Hey wait, what about this little 11 acre place by Chelsea? Chelsea is about 20 miles west of AA, in the opposite direction from Detroit. And the soil at this place!!! Black as night, a rich organic clay; I'd never seen such rich looking soil. Turns out it *is* rich. Too rich, in fact. But I'll get to that later.
So we bought it. Pulled out some of that aforementioned money, matched up with Greenstone Farm Credit (*Highly* recommended if you're in the Great Lakes region), and ended up getting it for a great price. Turns out the guy who owned it had thought of putting a house on it, but the water table was too high to make that feasible. (More on the water issues later too.) So we got pretty nice farmland at a little over $2k per acre, fall of 2007. And then the fun started...
Jodi and I (Ken) have been organic gardening in our back yard for over a decade. In 2006 we did a cash-out refinance, thinking it was our last chance before the housing bubble burst (a little early, but about right). We parked the money for a while, thinking about what to do with it. Meanwhile, we were trying to get our neighbors to go for a small community garden in our local park. There's plenty of land there, even if the soil is too gravelly and high pH. But the neighbors wouldn't bite.
So we started looking around for some land. My first thoughts were about something farther away from Ann Arbor, where we live, and more toward a place we could run away to if Detroit ever really blew up. AA is only about 40 miles from downtown Detroit. Luckily for us, the first place we looked seriously at was owned by a doctor in Florida who really didn't understand the value of his property, and wouldn't even consider a reasonable offer. He's probably still trying to unload it.
So, on to plan B. Anything a little closer? Hey wait, what about this little 11 acre place by Chelsea? Chelsea is about 20 miles west of AA, in the opposite direction from Detroit. And the soil at this place!!! Black as night, a rich organic clay; I'd never seen such rich looking soil. Turns out it *is* rich. Too rich, in fact. But I'll get to that later.
So we bought it. Pulled out some of that aforementioned money, matched up with Greenstone Farm Credit (*Highly* recommended if you're in the Great Lakes region), and ended up getting it for a great price. Turns out the guy who owned it had thought of putting a house on it, but the water table was too high to make that feasible. (More on the water issues later too.) So we got pretty nice farmland at a little over $2k per acre, fall of 2007. And then the fun started...
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